Yes, the stuff that is washable is called Superwash. It is usually merino that has been treated chemically so that you can put it through the washing machine. I would still treat it gently.

You didn't say whether you were using a spindle or a wheel; either way, it sounds like you are putting in too much twist--if going "barbed-wire" means it's curling back on itself before you get it wound on. As you are drawing and spinning, don't relax the tension before you wind onto the bobbin or spindle. Try a bit less twist with a shorter draw.

When I have spun Superwash, I take a length-about 6 inches, strip that in half, and then attenuate the fibers, pulling gently until your 6 inch strip is about 12 inches. I don't spin over the fold because I always have a tangled mass in my sweaty palm at the end--I know, it works for a lot of people but not me! You can do a long draw, but until you have the hang of the particular fiber, I would try the short draw for more control. Merino is a short stapled wool, so if you draft too long or too quickly, it will pull apart. Go slow! Superwash is fine and slippery. Take your time and you will get a feel for what the fiber needs. Keep working with it, because it's only by practise that you can conquer things that give you trouble. I can't tell you the frustration I've had over cotton--I never thought I would be able to spin it!

Let me know if this helped!

I've had quite a spinning disappointment this week. I finally finished all of my current roving and, as a reward, I decided to spin up the pale pink Australian wool/rayon. Since I wanted it fairly fine, I decided to try my Lollipop so it would be two treats in one. Much to my dismay, I can't draft this roving at all! Not only can't I draft it, but it is even hard to pull apart to prepare the fiber. It looks and feels quite soft but seems to be locked together like the fibers are magnetic. Is it the rayon that is causing this? Fortunately, I have a little fiber laid by (don't we all?) for just such emergencies so will choose something else. I don't want to use any of the fibers that I have huge amounts of for a handspindle project though.

Any advice on types of fibers or methods for using the Lollipop? I've never done more than try out a top whorl spindle before. I can't seem to get the hang of starting it on my leg ,but can see the advantage. It's a lot easier on the thumbs <G>.

Pat

It sounds to me like your roving is a bit felted, probably in the dying process. Sometimes this happens if they put spinning oil in prepared roving and it sits and gets sticky. What I would try first is stripping down a 6 inch piece of roving in half and then attenuating the fibers, gently pulling the strip until it is about double in length. From the sound of this, you may have to pull from the sides of the strip first, and then lengthen it. If the problem is spinning oil, it can be washed, but then you take the chance of felting it further, so this should be done with great care. Incidentally, the rayon is not the problem--it's the wool. Rayon is slippery, like silk.

I will be at the Knitting Guild convention in Milwaukee helping out in The Fold. Bring a strip of the roving and I'll take a look!

As far as what to spin with Lollipops--These are small spindles that do fine yarns beautifully. I use mine for fine Merino, cotton, silk, etc. If you are having trouble with starting it on your leg, don't do it! (I have trouble with that, too). Attach a leader, join on some fiber, and spin just like you would on any other spindle. Top whorls operate just the same as bottom whorl spindles; its just that the weight is distributed differently and is easier in the long run.

Hope to see you in Milwaukee!

I really like to spin mohair, in fact it was one of the first fibres I used when learning to spin on a drop spindle before I bought a spinning wheel. My question is this; how do I spin a really fluffy mohair yarn? I have seen handspun mohair in some shops and it has long fibres radiating out from a really thin core. Whenever I spin mohair it comes out looking very lustrous and silky with the 'fuzz' occurring as I make it up into a garment. I have tried brushing the yarn, but it still doesn't look like the stuff I have seen. I long to be able to spin a really fluffy mohair as I have a project in mind for it. If it is partly the way the fibre is prepared before spinning please let me know as I've got a couple of fleeces arriving any day. I will appreciate any help you can offer,

Many thanks, Carol.

What you are looking for is a designer yarn with a special mohair effect. The yarn will be a singles yarn. Here's what you do: Adjust your wheel for minimum take-up and be prepared to go slowly. You will find you need time to do the special effects, and so treadle slowly or too much twist can build up. Using a well carded rolag, use a long draw to spin a fine yarn. With the free hand, pull out a few fibers from the side of the drafting triangle just ahead of the twist, and fan them toward the orifice to create a fluffy halo around the core single. You must pinch and pull quickly to maintain a consistent halo. This needs to be a singles yarn because if you would now ply it, you would trap all those fuzzy fibers you have taken so much trouble to create. To set the yarn, soak the skein and hang to drip dry. It may be necessary to hang weights to get it to hang without twisting. Another way is to soak the yarn and wrap it wet around a warping mill or reskein it on your niddy noddy to dry. Do not store the yarn in a ball for any length of time or you will flatten the halo. Incidentally, the halo will continue to be enhanced with washing. Happy Mohair!

Stefie

I'm a very new and enthusiastic spinner. In the latest issue of Spin Off there was an article by Jude Daurelle about the Certificate of Excellence and while I know there aren't as many spinners as there are say, quilters, I was really surprised at how few recipients of the COE there have been (since 1981, 23 people have completed Level I and only 11 have completed Level II). So I'm curious. What exactly is the COE, what does getting one entail, and why do people try? The article compared attaining Level I and II to getting an MA and then a Ph.D. But the difference is that while some occupations require obtaining a degree in order to practice it, one can spin without a COE. And most masters and doctoral programs degree more than 34 people in seventeen years. I quite see that it is an achievement to get the COE and that it would be its own reward, but is there more to it than that?

Thanks,

Gina

Thanks for your question on the COE. It's one of my favorite subjects as it took so much work to complete and became so much of a part of my life for so long. With the growth that I experienced with the project, I felt all effort was more than worth it. Here's a brief explanation of what's involved.

As you know, there are two levels to the Certificate of Excellence: Level I is the technical angle of spinning and Level II is an in-depth study of one aspect of spinning. For Level II, while you may take as a topic any fiber, any spinning tool, or any spinning technic, the emphasis must be on "spinning," and not the fiber or the tool. You are not considered for Level II until you have passed Level I. Each should take about two years to complete.

Level I is what I completed last October. This involves spinning 40 one ounce skeins: 6 in wool, 4 in cotton, 5 in linen, 5 in silk, 4 in "other fibers" (rayon, nylon, dog hair, alpaca, yak, angora, etc.), 5 using different tools: drop and supported spindles, navajo spindle, wheel driven spindle, and bobbin and flyer driven spindle, and 11 yarn-design skeins. For each section you must choose one of the skeins produced and do a swatch from that yarn. For each skein, fiber samples are required along with an explanation of how you processed each and reasons for their choice. Each skein also requires a wrap card and yardage information by ounce and pound. Also, for each skein you have to do a card defining what materials were used, how it was spun, and two purposes for the yarn. The fiber choices and the documentation are of equal importance to the spinning itself. In each section, the skeins range from fine, medium, to bulky, plied, textured (if appropriate to the fiber), in wool, woolen and worsted. In the yarn design section, technics of blending, texturing, different ways of plying, different styles of yarn, different combinations of fibers, etc. are used. What each skein demands is a degree of problem-solving. For example: the general directions for wool say that a different wool breed should be used for each skein and to include a fine wool, a carpet wool, a luster-type wool, etc. For Skein 3, the directions are for a woolen yarn in size fine (35 or more wraps per inch). It is your job to include all the different kinds of wool across the six skeins while selecting an appropriate wool for each one. Here, I used a shetland lamb for my fine woolen as merino was better suited to the fine worsted. What ends up happening with each fiber is that you read and research all the possibilities for your choices and end up knowing far more than you ever thought there was to know! Wool is not just wool!

Part of your question asked why would anyone try for the COE. I had been spinning for around 3 years. A number of people said, "Stef, you are such a good spinner, you should go for the COE." Perhaps naivete played a good role here, because, after getting an answer to "What's the COE?" I went ahead, ordered the booklet and began. There was a group of 5 people who were all going to do this, so we met once a month as a group critique and support for each other. This lasted 3 months, and then there was only me! Well now, here was a challenge. I clucked along, doing skein after skein (and redoing skein after skein--all in all, I probably spun enough to have done the COE 5 times over!) At the fleece-to-shawl competition at Fiberfest in Ohio last summer (well into my project) I mentioned I was busy with my COE, and one of the judges said there were only about 20 in the country. A big GULP! What had I gotten myself into? I had no idea. My daughter, who spins and weaves, looked at me and said, "Mom, are you going to pass this?" I thought about this. I looked at my yarns already done and the fibers for those I had yet to do, and I did some self-evaluating. I realized I am, to some degree, a perfectionist. I don't get too maniacal, and "good enough" is in my vocabulary, but I always try to get whatever I am doing as good as I can get it. So, in answer to my daughter, I said, "if I satisfy myself, I will have a chance."

My biggest challenge was linen. I simply had never spun flax before! I took a workshop at Fiberfest with Bill Davis on fine flax spinning and came home to practice. Ounces and hundreds of yards later, I was reduced to tears and despair, claiming I was going to bomb out on the COE because of flax. I called Bill (in tears), sent him samples, and took his suggestions. He said that, after all, maybe I was expecting too much of myself--I had only been spinning it for three weeks! Well, that was certainly true, but it was the challenge I needed. I got my five flax skeins done and lost one point out of 60!

By September, I was a crazy person. I told the family not to count on meals. The only thing I was going to make was reservations. I finished my skeins, swatches, documentation, photos, file folders, and met my mailing deadline of Oct. 1. To add to my tension, remember that UPS strike--FedEx was the only way to be sure it would get there on time! It's only money!

The comments by the judges were very instructive. There were two suggestions for my spinning to become even better: more careful joins and a softer hand. I have incorporated both into my spinning and have come up with yarns that are even more satisfying since then. The whole process of the COE gave me the discipline to try new fibers and technics that it would have taken years for me to attempt or uncover. I never would have spun rayon, tencel, ecospun, yak, and certainly not flax! I would not have done a spiral yarn or wrapped a core. Now, these are things I consider before I do a project. The reason I started spinning in the first place was to be able to create yarns that fit what I wanted to do and suited the project in my mind's eye. Going through the COE gave me the tools to hasten me on my way to do just that. Had I not passed, or had I not finished, whatever work I did toward the COE would have been beneficial in my learning process. I would highly recommend it to anyone who wants to learn.

I hope this answered some of your questions and gave encouragement to try the COE. At least get the booklet and begin! For more information contact the Handweavers Guild of America at e-mail: Compuserve 73744,202 Phone: 770-495-7702 Address: Two Executive Concourse, Suite 201 3327 Duluth Hwy. Duluth, GA 30136-3373.

Stefie

Thanks - I was going to ask the Spindilitis group but this way I expose my ignorance to fewer people!

Sally Jo Daniels
in way-too-sunny South Florida

When we think of "setting" handspun yarns, there are two things to consider: twist and color. The way I set twist on any yarn, no matter what the fiber, is to soak the skein so it's thoroughly wet, wash with a ph neutral soap, rinse completely, and hang to dry. The days of boiling cotton I think are pretty much gone. Linen is another matter: it needs to be boiled to remove the waxy residue and vegetative matter left in the strick. With cotton, I never boil, and have never had a problem.

Color, on the other hand, is a problem with all cotton. First, keep in mind that cotton is the hardest of all fibers to dye, especially using natural dyes, because it is difficult to get the dye to penetrate all the way through (the dye molecules don't easily bond to the cotton to ensure a fast color). For greatest success in getting dye to set with my cotton yarns, I first wash them with a ph neutral soap and some washing soda. After they have been completely rinsed, I put them in the dye pot. It is the heat over a period of time that sets the color. If you have a pre-dyed cotton roving, or if you are warp or skein painting, and your yarn doesn't go into a hot dye pot, wrap the wet yarn in plastic wrap, and put in the microwave on high for about five minutes. (Be careful taking it out!) This should set the color firmly. When cooled a bit, rinse in warm to hot water to remove excess dye and hang to dry. The process will also set the twist.

Now go to Spindilitis and ask what they think. (At least you have someone else's experience to bounce off). I would be interested in other methods. There are many opinions on this, and there are still many "cotton-boilers" out there. I just haven't found it necessary. When you said you didn't want to display your ignorance, I laughed because I have done the same thing so many times. (The last time was just a month ago at a dye-study group when everyone was talking about gray cards--I didn't ask, and I still don't know what one does!!!) Usually, when I bravely and timidly ask the "obvious" question, people around me say, "Yea, I was wondering the same thing!"

Hope I've been of help.

Stefie

I wet spun hemp roving and plied the singles. Is boiling necessary to set the twist?

Karen Williams

Yes, boil your hemp skeins just the way you would do with linen. Hemp, like flax, is a bast fiber, meaning it comes from the same kind of cane-type plant. Boiling will not only set the twist, but it also will remove any vegetative matter remaining on the fiber. There will likely be a color change to a brighter, cleaner-looking skein of yarn.

Stefie

I'm glad you overcame your difficulties in spinning with flax fibres. I love the material and have grown flax myself on a small scale several times. Due to the right weather conditions two years ago, I got a fantastic result but where can I get hold of hackles fine enough to produce the thin threads the material is capable of? Once upon the time, 100 or 200 tines per square inch was possible. Now it seems as if 50 is the best. Do you have any suggestions? Any help in finding something to improve on the 50 situation is much appreciated!

Kristina in Sweden

I'm sorry it has taken so long for me to respond. Finally, I am caught up from the holidays and can attempt to answer your question. I have never grown flax, but I would like to, if for no other reason than to enjoy the pretty little blue flowers! As a result, I have little first-hand knowledge of the processing of flax, but I can refer you to several people who might. Bill Davis is my flax mentor. He specializes in fine linen spinning and is very knowledgable about the fiber, its history, preparation, etc.
William Davis
612 N., Pennsylvania
Lansing, MI 48912

Caroline Stewart owns a shop called The Niddy Noddy and she and her husband have grown and processed flax for her spinning. They might be a good source for finding the information on the hackles you are seeking.
Caroline Stewart
The Niddy Noddy
205 Center St.
Hannibal, MO 63401

Sue McFarland from Susan's Fiber Shop has the greatest variety of fiber-preparation tools that I have come across. I know she carries hackles, so you might look into what she has.
Susan's Fiber Shop
N 250 Hwy.A
Columbus, WI 53925

I hope one of these sources can help!

Stefie

Please be patient with me, as I am a VERY beginning spinner and have what may seem a very dumb question. I have asked on other lists and sites and people just seem to ignore me, so I'm hoping you'll help. Here's my question, such as it is: I have a Louet top whorl spindle and a half pound of Corriedale tops. All my books talk about spinning carded fibers, but top is combed, right? I am starting to think my drafting technique is all wrong-- I can never see the drafting triangle, it is just a straight line... so, can I only spin this using a short draw, making a worsted yarn? Because the long draw seems unattainable. I am ordering a video, so don't worry, I'm not relying only on you. Please forgive the confusion of this letter, it reflects my general confusion in all spinning matters. By the way, congrats on your COE-- I'm totally impressed!

Thank you for your time,
Rachel Steele

You're doing it right! First of all, if you are using a drop spindle, you have to use a short draw--there isn't a way to do a long draw because you need the twist to hold the fibers together or the weight of the spindle would pull them apart, no matter how light the spindle! For a long draw using a spindle, you would need to use a supported spindle; then, the weight of the spindle wouldn't be a factor.

The other point is that concerning worsted and woolen yarn. Worsted yarn is where the fibers are all parallel, as in a combed preparation. It is spun with a short draw to control this, and is meant to be smooth. The advantage to worsted is that it is stronger, smoother, won't pill, and will show off the stitches. This is what is used in Aran knitting, for example.

Woolen yarn, on the other hand, has the fibers going every which way. If you hand card and then roll the fiber up into a rolag and spin from the end, the fibers are anything but parallel. To achieve good woolen spinning you should envision spinning the fibers around a column of air using a long draw. The yarn is fuzzy and somewhat textured, as a result. The advantages to woolen yarn are that it is warmer and has a lot of interest. The disadvantages are that it will pill more easily and will confuse a pattern by the fuzzy texture.

So, you have to plan your spinning with the type of project you have in mind. This goes all the way to fleece selection, because different breeds lend themselves to spinning worsted or woolen more easily with better effects. The type of preparation (carded vs. combed) should be a consideration with the final project in mind.

The bottom line is that if you have a combed top, you want a worsted yarn! So you are just fine with what you are doing!

I hope this helped. If you have any other questions, just write back.

Stefie

I am trying to find out out to wash the wool after it is shorn from the sheep. I am new to this. I hope you can help. Thank you for any info you can send

M. Miller

There are several things to be concerned about with washing wool--1. getting the dirt out, and 2. getting the grease out, and this is more critical.

If the fleece is not too fine (not a merino or rambouillet or one of the superfines), you can just put it in the washing machine.

1. Fill your tub with the hottest water you can muster. (I have my hot water tank set to the highest setting--it's 150-160 degrees.)

2. Put in the fleece--loose, and let it soak for 15-30 minutes with no agitation. This lets the wool absorb the water and get thoroughly wet and lets the scales open up. Also, the initial layer of dirt comes off!

3. Spin out the water, and bring the wool to one side, away from the water entry. Fill up the tub, again, this time adding Dawn dishwashing liquid. Spread the fleece out, mixing with the soap. Let stand, again with no agitation.

4. Repeat above step, next time using Liquid Tide. Then repeat 2 times with clear water.

After you have spun it out the final time, take the fleece and put on raised screens to dry.

If you have a superfine fleece, sort it and put it into mesh bags. Then the process is the same, but you may need another soap bath and another rinse bath. Make sure your water is really really hot. The grease in the superfine fleeces is tougher to get out.

Good luck!

Stefie

Hi Stefie,

I hope you can help me. I am trying to find the wool that they use for mendlias. My art book tells me to use wool roving, but after going to a local dealer, it isn't what I'm looking for. I have heard it called rope wool, but no luck there either. Any ideas on what the right name is for the wool and where to look for it?

Thank you very much,

Herb

Hi Herb,

What's a mendlia? I've looked and can't find a reference anywhere. If I knew what it was, perhaps I could recommend a type of wool. Let me know.

Stefie

Note from Carol: Anybody out there know what a mendlia is?

good morning

i was wondering if you know a recipe for making hemp paper of other hemp related materials

ray

Hi Ray,

I am not a paper maker, so I really do not know. I would imagine you would follow the same process as you would with other materials, like cotton or linen. Check with the School of the Art Institute in Chicago. I know they have a very fine paper making department.

Good luck,

Stefie

I'm wanting to spin some horse hair (from the mane) to make bolo ties and I can't seem to get the resulting thread to be smooth. I end up with inch-long "eyelashes" sticking out everywhere. Too much twist? Even if I could "shave" the eyelashes off, the resulting cord would be very prickly...not good for neckwear.

I've seen horsehair belts and suchlike and the cords are very smooth. How can I spin this hair so it will be smooth?

Thanks!

Sue

Hi Sue,

I have never done this, but I know it can be really tricky. I would imagine that if you approached spinning it like you would flax, you might have better luck. I also know that the weaving or braiding of it can be really frustrating. For that, contact someone at a horse stable. They may be able to direct you to someone that knows about using horse hair for these things.

Good luck,

Stefie